MÁY DỆT KIM (MÁY DỆT VẢI THUN)
Như các bạn đã biết, vải dệt kim có độ co giãn tốt nên được gọi là vải thun.
Vải thun được cấu tạo bởi các vòng sợi liên kết với nhau, do máy dệt kim tạo thành (theo các kiểu đan cơ bản) như hình vẽ sau:
Kieu det 2 danThun 1 dàn (Single jersey) Thun 2 dàn (RIB 1X1) Thun 2 dàn (Interlock)
Để các vòng sợi liên kết được với nhau, người ta đã chế tạo ra các loại máy dệt vải thun chia ra làm 2 dòng chính là: Máy dệt kim tròn và máy dệt kim phẳng (máy dệt kim đan ngang).
Máy dệt kim tròn
Máy dệt kim phẳng
Ở cả 2 dòng máy này, máy được chế tạo bởi 3 bộ phận chính:
– Cơ cấu cấp sợi
Bao gồm giá (dàn) để sợi, ống dẫn sợi, bánh xe cấp sợi dự trữ, bộ điều chỉnh sức căng sợi, khuyên dẫn sợi…
– Cơ cấu tạo vòng
Đây là cơ cấu quan trọng nhất đối với máy dệt thun, nó quyết định đến chất lượng vải, độ đồng đều của các cột vòng và mật độ vải: Cơ cấu tạo vòng bao gồm thiết bị chính như sau:
+ Mâm kim hay còn gọi là giường kim, ở đó được phay các rãnh (khe) để lắp kim dệt. Yêu cầu các khe rãnh này có khoảng cách và kích thước bằng nhau tuyệt đối.
Tùy theo yêu cầu dệt vải dày hay mỏng (chi số sợi thấp hay chi số sợi cao) mà người ta phay 3-36 khe/1 inch, với mỗi số đo khe / 1 inch đương với 1 cấp máy: Ví dụ máy cấp 7G, 12G, 16G, 24G, 30G…
Máy dệt cổ jacquard (hay máy dệt cổ chữ, hoa văn)
Là máy dệt kim phẳng nhưng được điều khiển cam bằng các vi mạch điện tử. Các hình vẽ thiết kế được lập trình trên máy tính và nạp vô máy bằng USB với phần mềm thiết kế theo máy.
Hiện nay, các máy dệt hiện đại có thể tạo ra các hoa văn cầu kỳ, là điểm nhấn chính cho chiếc áo polo truyền thống.
Giường kim máy tròn Giường kim máy phẳng
+ Kim dệt: Kim lưỡi và kim lá (platin với máy dệt kim tròn 1 dàn kim single jersey).
Kim lưỡi Kim lá (platin)
+ Cam: Cam có chức năng điều khiển kim đi theo yêu cầu tạo vòng sợi của các kiểu dệt từng loại vải khác nhau. Có 3 loại cam
Cam tạo vòng (cam núi)
Cam ngậm vòng (cam túc).
Cam trượt (cam ngang).
Ngoài ra, với các máy dệt vải thun hoa (máy dệt Zakka) người ta sử dụng các thiết bị đặc biệt hoặc các thiết bị điện tử để điều khiển kim dệt.
Động trình cơ bản của kim trong quá trình tạo vòng sợi trên vải thun
Trong quá trình dệt vải, những xơ bông, tơ và bụi… sẽ bám vào rãnh mâm, lưỡi kim và cam…. làm cho kim tạo vòng không đồng đều và ổn định gây nên lỗi vải: bị sọc, bị gút bông. Dù khi thiết kế máy, các kỹ sư đã thiết kế hai vòng quạt (bao gồm sau chiếc chia hai tầng, mỗi tầng ba chiếc để thổi vệ sinh bụi). Vì vậy cần phải thường xuyên vệ sinh máy định kỳ và đúng hạn.
Cơ cấu cuộn vải
Sợi sau khi tạo vòng thành vải sẽ được qua cơ cấu cuộn vải. Cơ cấu cuộn vải gồm các bộ phận chính:
Trục ép vải.
Bánh răng cuộn vải hay hộp số.
Với máy dệt kim tròn, Vải được cuộn thành cây ở dạng ống hoặc mở khổ trải từng lớp trên bàn trải của máy dệt.
Đối với máy dệt mở khổ ngay trên dàn cuốn, tránh vết gấp đôi giữa thân cấy vải.
Trên đây là sơ bộ về máy dệt kim cơ bản. Nếu muốn biết thêm chi tiết bạn có thể đặt câu hỏi dưới đây, chúng tôi sẽ trả lời sớm nhất cho bạn.
Cty TNHH Hưng Vượng là đơn vị chuyên sản xuất và cung cấp vải thun chất lượng cao trên thị trường. Có uy tín nhiều năm được các bạn hàng chọn là đối tác chính.
Đồng hành cùng phát triển thương hiệu Việt với các hãng thời trang lớn trong nước. Chúng tôi cung cấp cho người tiêu dùng Việt Nam các sản phẩm vải thun chất lượng cao tốt nhất với giá phù hợp mức thu nhập của người Việt.
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